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(Research report / Forskningsrapport, 2001)
In a preceding paper, [7], physical optics was developed for a selection of discrete long wave solutions by application a perturbation expansion. Herein, we approach discrete optics from analysis of discrete energy, in the ...
(Research report / Forskningsrapport, 2001)
This paper focus on experiments on run-up of strongly nonlinear waves on a moderately steep beach of 10.5deg inclination. Velocity fields are obtained by the PIV (Particle Image Velocimetry) technique. Acceleration ...
(Research report / Forskningsrapport, 2001)
An industrial Navier-Stokes solver (FLUENT) is used to examine steep waves as they run up a steep beach (10.54$^0$). The volume of fluid method (VOF) is used to model the free surface. Comparison with experimental results ...
(Research report / Forskningsrapport, 2001)
We formulate generation of tsunamis by earthquakes as a linear potential flow problem with rapid in and out-flux at the sea bottom. Starting from solutions for a few simplified bottom deformations we proceed to establish ...